How to Know Your “Market” as a Model - Editorial vs Commercial Modeling

So an agent just told you that your market is editorial, not commercial, and you have no idea what that means.  Knowing what the markets are and where you “fit” is key to building a successful career.

The “market” not only refers to the different types of modeling, but also the various cities around the world where models go for work.  First you need to understand the different types of modeling, and subsequently the cities that are predominant for each type of work.  

“Editorial” or “Fashion”

These models shoot for magazines and high fashion campaigns, and walk the runways during fashion weeks in Paris, London, NYC, and Milano, and sometimes in smaller fashion cities like Tokyo, Sydney, or Sao Paolo.  This is a fast-paced market where top models compete for a limited number of opportunities.  




Timing and a great agent are everything.  It requires nerves of steel to handle the rejection, the long hours, distant travel that can be lonely, and the physicial requirements.  It is a lot to handle on very young shoulders.  These models have to be tall, willowy and have the ability to be transformed by designers and editoris into the “look of the season”.  Getting editorial and runway work, often for very little money, is the risk fashion models take in aiming for a major career.  It is essential that these models appear in the shows of the top designers, which puts them in front of the most powerful magazine editors, in hopes of being noticed and selected for prestigious editorials.  Exposure is key and any income takes a back seat until (and if!) a model becomes a “name” and they begin to book campaigns.

“Commercial”

The commercial modeling market has a broader range in both body type and age, and these models can have quite a long career.  This market can also be a training ground for new faces to give them the time and opportunity to learn the business and to gain confidence in front of the camera and potential clients.  Commercial modeling can be broken down into specific types of modeling such as swimwear, juniors, lifestyle, and catalogue. These markets exist all over the world and these models tend to travel on bookings, and also for extended stays in certain cities such as L.A., Miami, Chicago, Hamburg, Singapore, Tokyo, and Hong Kong. London, Paris, NYC, and Milano also have commercial work and often the fashion editorial models are able to take advantage of this to ear some money between magazine editorials and runway work.  Commercial models have the chance to develop longer relationships with agents and can follow the work seasonally around the world.  It is a great way to travel, and experience life abroad, while hopefully(!) earning some money.  

Both fashion and commercial models need to build a strong portfolio and there are magazines and testing opportunities for both in their respective markets. Knowing where you “fit” in the modeling industry can help you aim for the right agents and markets.  If you are 5’9” to 5’11” - willowy with high cheekbones and under 21 years old, you might be considered more editorial than commercial.  If you have some curves and look amazing in a bikini, or if you are young and fresh and like to move more naturally in front of the camera, then you are probably more commercial.  If an agent tells you that you are commercial you might find yourself off to Miami or Hamburg or Tokyo, and if you are considered fashion then you will most likely be sent to NYC or Paris depending on your age, to do show castings and to meet editors.  


It’s not very common for models to transition from commercial to fashion but in some cases and model can really become known for working for a commercial brand and catch the eye of editors, reversing the trajectory of their career.  Fashion models are lucky to have three or four seasons of shows to make their mark before agents are likely to begin transitioning them to a broader more commercial market, increasing their income potential.  

Remember, it is all business and whether it is commercial or fashion, it is all work, so respect that, and always be the most professional that you can be and take advantage of the opportunity.  People will remember that  - you are your “brand”.  And don’t forget that for every one model that are tens of thousands of hopefuls who would gladly walk in your shows in a heartbeat!  

Supporting images:

Candice Swanepoel, Self Magazine, March 2015 by Sebastian Kim

Liya Kebede, Porter Magazine, Winter 2015, by Chris Colls

#newfaces #modeling #gettingintomodeling #modelingmarkets #businessofmodeling # editorialmodeling #commercialmodeling #lifestylemodeling #runwaymodeling #modelinginfo

Coco Rocha - Model Crush Monday!

Canadian supermodel Coco Rocha was already appearing on international runways when she had her “star turn” moment opening the Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2007 show, Irish dancing down the runway, fixing her squarely on every editor and star photographer’s radar. Talk about leaving great impression!  A model with a personality!

Appearing on dozens of international covers and countless campaigns, Coco is known as the Queen of Pose”, which she has immortalized in her book “Study of Pose: 1000 Poses by Coco Rocha”.  Every model who dreams of doing high fashion editorial must study this book and practice for themselves!! Her book is available on Amazon: Study of Pose

If you want to see Coco in action, check out these videos for yourself and challenge yourself to move like Coco!  Here is where all those dance classes finally pay off!

Nineteen jumping cover poses in thirty seconds:

Face Posing:

 Harper's Bazaar Thailand:

One of the early adapters to social media, Coco has over one million followers on Instagram and Google+.  She has appeared on TV shows and films as a fashion industry expert, and now has her own fashion line called Co+Co  (the link is www.cocorocha.com) full of gorgeous, chic, supermodel-worthy separates.  

Coco Rocha Instagram:  https://www.instagram.com/cocorocha/

Oh!  And did I mention that she found love along the way and now they have the cutest little mini-Coco, Ioni James Conran, with her husband James Edward Conran, who has fifty thousand followers of her own in Instagram? https://www.instagram.com/ioniconran/
With baby Ioni the apple has not fallen far from the tree.  Supermodel in training!  

I

We (heart) Coco!

Study Up! Top models know their industry! #homework

Just like any business, education is the key to becoming more successful. And so it is that an informed model, is a better model. Think smart AND pretty!  It is so easy to do your homework online and research the top players in the business today ... search for the iconic supermodels of the past, and even movies stars that influence the industry.  Often a photographer, editor, designer, or advertising clients will have references that give a creative direction to a project.  

If the agency sends you details about a booking and names the photographer or client, do your homework ahead of time and know who you will be working with!  If it is for a magazine, and the editor’s name appears, look them up too. You need to build a knowledge base that covers the top international magazines and editors, the top fashion photographers past and present, fashion designers, famous models, and movies old and new.  

Hypothetical situation:  you arrive on set to shoot for a major international fashion magazine with a superstar photographer and editor, and the theme of the shoot references the movie “Roman Holiday” staring Audrey Hepburn, and you don’t know who these people are and have never even heard of that movie, then you will be lost on set and not be able to fall into the “story” or bring some imagination to the shoot – talk about a missed opportunity! Your booker will give you as much info ahead of time as they can, and it is up to you to do your homework online and arrive with more than a clue about the project.  And if you haven’t been given any prior info, then by all means ask!  It shows you are interested and invested in working with the team to create the best campaign they are creating.

Check in often with sites like www.vogue.com where you can view the latest designer collections. Follow all the top photographers, international editions of fashion magazines, and models on Instagram; Look up these same magazine’s fashion editorials online through Google, and stay on top of the business.

So, if someone says “we are shooting jeans and channeling Kate Moss and Markie Mark in the 90’s Calvin Klein ads, you will know to what they are referring, and be ready to participate in the project! 

Starter Reference list:

Top Photographers:
Patrick Demarchelier, David Sims, Nick Knight, Mario Testino, Inez and Vinoodh, Arthur Elgort, Cass Bird, Ellen Von Unwerth, David Bellemere, and Hans Feuer, to name a few.

Magazines:
Vogue Magazine and its various international editions, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Numero, The Face, Porter, Bon, Frenchie, Teen Vogue, Marie Claire, Jalouse, Nylon, W, and the list goes on.

Super models to know: 
Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, Gisele Bundchen, Claudia Schiffer, Natalia Vodianova, Linda Evangelista, Chanel Iman, and so many more.  


Everyone loves a model who arrives and is prepared, and that means having a good understanding of the industry and knowledge of the key players.  If you are passionate about modeling, then do your homework and educate yourself – it will really help your career!

Photo Credits:

Vogue China, February 2015

Model:  Lara Stone (IMG)

Photographer:  Mario Testino (artpartner) internation

Styling:  Tonne Goodman

Hair:  Christiaan        

Makeup: Yadim (artpartner)

Caroline Trentini - Model Crush Monday!

This week's Model Crush Monday is Caroline Trentini - one of the hottest cover girls of the last decade who has been on dozens and international magazine covers, walked countless runways, and appeared in many print campaigns.

Known for her chameleon looks she transforms herself with fashions from the world's top designers and magazines setting her apart in the sea of beautiful. Even while expecting baby number two, she continues to dominate at the top of the model spectrum, season after season.  

Her expressive face, 6 foot frame, and dancer-like ability make her a favorite of both the most important magazines and photographers in the world. Editorial but equally appealing commercially for clients like Victoria's Secret and DKNY.  Not only can she move, transform herself, and inspire, but she is known for being extremely nice, a wonderful mom and incredibly professional - just another reason to adore her!

Caroline Trentini on Instagram    https://www.instagram.com/trentinireal/

Should Women Shave Their Face? The Answer is Yes! And Here's Why.

Shaving your face is not a new concept. It may not be widely practiced in the United States, but this is a beauty process that is openly recognized and even advertised on the sidewalks of local salons in Japan. And let's face it who has a better reputation for perfect porcelain skin than the Japanese! No shame is associated with this beauty procedure on the other side of the world. It baffles me to this day why women would be offended by this idea. Dermatology and Plastic Surgeon's offices across America offer this same technique known under a different name called "derma-planing" only they charge hundreds of dollars to do it. Peach fuzz shaving is included in most micro-dermabrasion appointments too. 

I have been openly promoting facial shaving since publishing my book Face This: Real Secrets from Real Models, 5 years ago. It is a beauty secret I have been using now for 30 years that I learned about from a makeup artist behind the scenes for a big modeling job. This was a time before digital cameras and photoshop buttons, a time when we did beauty shots with black and white film. The reason shaving off the fine hairs on your face is so key to flawless looking skin in photographs is because in a tight shot those fine hairs on your face are quite apparent. Powder and foundation can get trapped and reflect light from them. 

Shaving their faces, is a part of Japanese womens' beauty routine that removes old, dead skin and allows facial regeneration and can improve collagen production. It takes the outer layer of skin and encourages new cell growth. Shaving exfoliation, helps to reduce the signs of aging, sun damage, and fine lines. It is a myth that facial hair, or any hair for that matter, will grow back darker or courser if you shave it. If it were true that shaving off a hair created more hairs, then most bald men would suddenly no longer be bald. Having shaved my face for nearly 30 years, I should be able to grow a mustache in no time, but the hair on my face is still the same - same for everyone shaving or not. And I as a working model I am far from being known as the "bearded lady".

Hair is dead and there is absolutely no way for dead hair, once shaved, to signal the hair follicle deep underneath the skin, to grow more hair. Hair does not grow in denser, darker or courser after shaving and mothers across America need to stop telling their daughters that it does.  I know we all love Mom but this needs to stop! 

The truth is that we ALL, supermodels included, have facial hair. In fact there are only 2 places on our bodies that we do not have any hair at all ... the palms of your hand and the soles of our feet. The hair on our bodies falls into two categories: Vellus hair - the soft lanugo found on women's faces, arms and back, and, Terminal hair - the thicker, course strands like that on your head. Around puberty, hormones transform the vellus hair under the arms and the pubic area into the coarse, pigmented hair. And just so you know, for many women, after menopause the hair under their armpits returns to this soft vellus hair again.

The number of hair follicles you have is determined at birth and no new hair follicles develop as you age. Hormones are the only thing that can affect the vellus hair to change to terminal hair outside of certain medical conditions; not shaving or waxing, cutting or not cutting it. Hormones. That is why we see changes in hair at puberty, pregnancy and menopause.

It is scientifically impossible to stimulate a hair follicle to change simply by cutting it off. It is possible that it may feel a bit courser when it first begins to grow because of the blunt hair cut it was given by the razor, but in a few days it will taper like before and look exactly the same as it did before. Also, the appearance of the hair itself against the contrast of your bare skin is what makes it appear darker, not that it actually has changed it's color at all!

Not only is it important to get rid of the fine hairs on your face for perfect skin in photos - so that makeup and powder do not get trapped and become more visible, but don't forget about other areas of your body that could benefit from shaving including your arms. This is something that college girls are well aware of and widely practiced at sororities everywhere - so just as you shave your legs, don't forget your other limbs! If I have not been convincing enough, here is a quote to consider:

"Arms, bikini, legs, underarms ... my entire BODY is hairless."

---Kim Kardashian, TV celebutante

There are many benefits to shaving off the fine hairs on your face besides just having a perfect surface to photograph so the hairs do not reflect light in your photos or so that your makeup glides smoothly on your face. When you use a razor or blade to remove the hairs you are also exfoliating the skin and taking off the dead surface layer, giving your face a healthy fresh glow. This is the allure of the professional procedures such as derma planing and razor peels that can cost hundred of dollars.

Experts have found that exfoliating the skin through chemical peels and microdermabrasion, removing the top layer of skin that may include precancerous cells from sun damage, may actually decrease the chance of developing certain types of skin cancers. Think about men who shave almost daily the lower part of their face -- it has been found that over 90% of all basal cell carcinomas, which are primarily caused through sun exposure, are found on the upper 2/3 of the a man's face. Could it be that men shaving has given them this clinical benefit? Pretty compelling!

If you are bothered by facial hair please know you are not alone!  In fact, more than 20 million women in the U.S. alone remove unwanted facial hair once a week and some every single day by tweezing, shaving or waxing according to a survey by Bristol Myers.  I shave my face about every 2-3 weeks, but it will be different for everyone. Shaving is the easiest and least expensive way to take care of it so please don't be afraid to try this ancient Japanese secret! Remember to check in with here at A Model's Secrets to learn more tips and tricks that models and celebrities use to look their best! 

XO

Shelley